"Here is the Islamic Republic of Iran today, in all its beauty, ferocity, and contradiction - from the modern bustling capital of Tehran to the medieval holy city of Qom. A fusion of eloquent travelogue, historical inquiry, unforgettable portraits of people, and interviews with Iranians from all walks of life, Neither East nor West is a landmark contribution to both travel writing and cultural studies, as well as a timely illumination of a nation deeply misunderstood by most Westerners.". "Christiane Bird, who spent several years of her early childhood in Iran, sets out to write a simple safarnameh - the Persian word for travelogue or, literally, travel letter - but soon delivers much more. In describing the sights, sounds, and overall tenor of life in Iran today, she helps to break through the silence that has surrounded the country's culture - as opposed to its politics - for nearly twenty years. Up until the election of Iran's moderate President Khatami in 1997, virtually no Americans were allowed into the Islamic Republic.". "Bird presents an unprecedented and riveting glimpse of contemporary Iran. Her travels take her from the sacred pilgrimage site of Mashhad, visited by more than twelve million Shi'ites every year, to the haunting, isolated valley of Alamut, once home to the legendary cult of the Assassins. She visits mosques, public baths, Khomeini's former home, and a Caspian Sea resort, and attends Friday prayer meetings and a horse racing meet. Along the way, she talks to everyone from muleteers to ayatollahs, Kurds to Turkomans, Westernized Iranians to traditional Iranians - many of whom invite her home for dinner or a cup of tea."--BOOK JACKET.