Designed for the tourist seeking a fresh, authentic, Roman experience, this intimate, stimulating guide explores Rome’s bustling close-in neighborhoods, its splendid modern architecture, and its rivers, magnificent fountains, and aqueducts. Itineraries take the reader to Fascist and occupied Rome of World War II, the nearby Alban Hills, and the Eternal City’s lesser-known green spaces. Innovative chapters feature cultural and artistic Rome, including art galleries, jazz clubs, film locations, and rooftop bars--even places that offer a sumptuous (and free) vernissage of wine and hors d’oeuvres. With Bill and Dianne as guides—their voices part of the experience—the curious traveler will discover a housing project built under Mussolini; ascend a little-known holy Roman road on the city’s outskirts; spend an evening in the out-of-the-way, artsy neighborhood of Pigneto; enjoy a trattoria where only Italians eat; and, among the book’s many informative, creative “sidebars,” find in one the troubling story of Rome's Jewish community, and in another locate sites in Angels & Demons. 16 maps, 70 photos, an index, and detailed directions and instructions make this “new” Rome easily accessible. For the frugally-minded, at times adventurous (at times armchair) traveler